Squamish, British Columbia, is a world-renowned rock climbing destination, celebrated for its stunning granite cliffs, diverse climbing styles, and breathtaking scenery. Whether you're a seasoned climber seeking a challenging multi-pitch adventure or a beginner looking to experience the thrill of rock climbing, Squamish offers an unparalleled variety of routes to suit all skill levels and preferences. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of some of the best rock climbing routes and areas in Squamish, drawing from a range of expert perspectives to offer a detailed and informative resource.

Multi-Pitch Routes on The Chief

The Stawamus Chief, a massive granite monolith, is the centerpiece of Squamish climbing. Its towering walls offer numerous multi-pitch routes, ranging from moderate classics to challenging test pieces.

• Squamish Butt Face (5.9): Arguably the easiest route to the summit of The Chief, this climb is a popular choice for those looking for a moderate multi-pitch experience. It features a mix of slab, face, and crack pitches, providing a good introduction to the variety of climbing styles found in Squamish. The route is generally well-protected and offers a pleasant climb with great views.
• Ultimate Everything (5.9): This longer, 14-pitch route combines with Calculas and Memorial Cracks for a memorable outing. It's a great option for those looking for a longer day on the wall with sustained moderate climbing. The route offers a good mix of crack and face climbing, and the length provides a sense of accomplishment.
• Squamish Buttress (5.10c or 5.9 variation): A classic route that starts on the Apron and includes moderate terrain with a final short but steep 5.10 corner. It's a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing, offering a variety of climbing styles and a satisfying finish. The route is known for its varied climbing and is a good step up from easier multi-pitch routes.
• Grand Wall (5.11a A0): One of the most iconic routes in North America, the Grand Wall is a must-do for experienced climbers. It features varied pitches, including the famous Split Pillar pitch and the challenging Sword pitch. The route is long, sustained, and requires solid crack climbing skills and endurance. It's a true test of a climber's ability and a memorable experience.
• Angels Crest (5.10b): A stunning 500-meter alpine-style ridge traverse with incredible exposure and views. This route is a longer day out and requires a good level of fitness and experience. Be prepared for a long day and bring plenty of water. The route offers a unique alpine experience with stunning scenery.

Other Multi-Pitch Routes

Beyond The Chief, Squamish offers a wealth of other multi-pitch climbing opportunities.

• Diedre (5.8): A classic five-pitch line on the Apron, known for its varied climbing and great views. It's a great introduction to Squamish multi-pitch trad climbing, featuring beautiful slab climbing paired with crack techniques. It is often crowded because it’s such a classic moderate.
• Banana Peel (5.7): A popular route on the Apron, featuring enjoyable laybacking up a long corner system. This route is a good option for those looking for a moderate multi-pitch climb with fun and engaging moves.
• St Vitus Dance (5.9): Another Apron route, known for its technical slab climbing. This route is a good option for those looking to improve their slab climbing skills.
• Freeway (5.11c): Located on the University Wall, this is a technical and demanding multi-pitch for experienced climbers, featuring steep corners, delicate slab, and exposed face moves. Be ready for sustained difficulty over multiple pitches.
• Tantalus Wall (5.7): Located at Shannon Falls, this route is perfect for beginner climbers looking for an introductory multi-pitch climb. It offers gorgeous views of Shannon Falls and is a great opportunity to practice anchor systems in a less intimidating setting.
• Skywalker (5.8): A beautiful multi-pitch route located at Shannon Falls, offering a scenic and enjoyable climb.

Single-Pitch Sport Climbs

Squamish is also home to a wide variety of single-pitch sport climbs, offering everything from beginner-friendly routes to challenging test pieces.

• Colin de Bin (5.10a): Located at The Pillary, this route is known for its technical and thoughtful moves with high-quality stone and spectacular views.
• Low Impact (5.10a): At Forgotten Wall, this route starts on a big detached flake and continues on angular jugs, making it very popular.
• My Backward Walk (5.10a): Found at Rogues Gallery, this route moves rightward diagonally up a juggy line and has a link-up option to a 5.11b route.
• Heavy Petting Action (5.10b): At Pet Wall in Murrin Park, this route is highly technical and offers a great view of Howe Sound.
• Ants Go Marching (5.10b): At Fern Hill, this route is engaging but not overly difficult, making it a fun climb.
• Jean-Jean (5.10b): At Area 44, this route features a tough start followed by intricate climbing up a nice face.
• More Than Just a Pretty Face (5.10c): At Lakeside by the Woods, this short route packs a punch with committing moves and varied holds.
• The Torii Gate (5.10c): At Electric Avenue in Cheakamus Canyon, this route has excellent stone and a proper crux section.
• Pan’s Sword (5.10d): At Neverland, this route works its way up a stunning dihedral, requiring solid footwork skills.
• Ressurection (5.10a): Located in the Smoke Bluffs, this is a steep and exposed sport route with big holds and bolts close together—great for beginner sport climbers.
• Sentry Box (5.12a): Located in Chek Canyon, this is a bold climb that combines technical moves and power sequences on stunning granite. Chek Canyon is a sport climbing hub with routes of all grades.
• Disneyland (5.10c): Located in the Smoke Bluffs, this is a short but high-quality sport route on juggy holds that will work your balance and technique. Perfect for climbers transitioning into harder sport grades.
• Dream Catcher (5.11b): Located on the central dome of The Chief, this is a classic sport route featuring sustained climbing with excellent bolt placements. The climb offers spectacular views of Squamish and Howe Sound.
• The Crucible (5.10c): This route provides a great introduction to The Chief's routes, with moderate difficulty and solid protection. The climb follows a beautiful slab face and rewards climbers with panoramic views upon reaching the summit.
• The Exterminator (5.10d): A popular rope-runner route in the Smoke Bluffs, boasting a pleasant mix of crack climbing and face moves. It's well-protected and offers a good workout with stunning views of the surrounding forest and mountains.
• Throat Slide (5.12a): For those seeking more technical climbs in the Smoke Bluffs, this route provides a challenging ascent with intricate movements and powerful holds.
• Bitmap (5.11a): A classic route on Abbott Ridge, offering a mix of horizontal and vertical climbing with reliable protection. The route traverses beautiful granite features.
• Pipe Bomb (5.10a): A fun and approachable route in Put-in Canyon, great for climbers looking to enjoy steady climbing without extreme difficulty. The route features interesting rock formations and enjoyable climbing moves.
• Northern Lights (5.11d): A beloved route in Horizontal Falls, known for its dramatic overhangs and sustained vertical climbing. The route offers ample protection and fantastic views.
• West Coast Gambit (5.11a): This route at West Point and The Last Tuesday is celebrated for its beautiful setting and enjoyable moves. Climbers appreciate the well-placed bolts and the rewarding summit view over the surrounding wilderness.
• The Kraken (5.12d): A technical and strenuous climb at West Point and The Last Tuesday that offers challenging sequences and a thrilling ascent.

Single-Pitch Trad Climbs

Squamish is also a haven for trad climbers, with numerous single-pitch routes offering a variety of challenges.

• Burgers and Fries (5.7): A classic single-pitch route at the Smoke Bluffs, great for beginners.
• Penny Lane (5.9): Another popular route at the Smoke Bluffs, known for its moderate difficulty.
• Genesis (5.10a): A harder single-pitch route at the Smoke Bluffs, suitable for those looking for a challenge.
• Smoke Bluff Connection (5.10b): A technical route at the Smoke Bluffs, offering a good test for intermediate climbers.
• Exasperator (5.10c): Located at Chief Base, this is a two-pitch splitter crack that defines Squamish’s famous crack climbs. Beautiful hand jams, finger locks, and technical footwork. It’s an excellent route to practice finger crack technique.
• Absolute Zero (5.13b): One of Squamish's most challenging climbs, located on Abbott Ridge, this is a demanding multi-pitch tradition route. It requires advanced technical skills, excellent gear placement, and a high level of fitness.
• Pictographs (5.12c): Located in Put-in Canyon, this route offers a steep and powerful climb with complex gear placements. The route is known for its beautiful holds and engaging sequences.
• The Wizard (5.13a): For advanced climbers, located in Horizontal Falls, this presents a formidable multi-pitch trad challenge. The route demands technical prowess, solid gear placements, and endurance.
• Klahanie Crack (5.9): A popular crack climbing route located at Shannon Falls.
• The Black Dyke (5.10b): A classic crack climb located in the Malamute.

Bouldering

Squamish is also famous for its bouldering, particularly around the Grand Wall forest and the Apron Boulders. The area is home to over 2000 bouldering problems, including the world-famous Dreamcatcher boulder (V14d) put up by Chris Sharma.

• The Black Dyke (V4): Located at North Walls Boulders, this bold line attracts climbers because of its distinctive black-streaked rock and phenomenal moves on sharp granite. It’s pumpy, so come fresh!
• Titanic (V4): Located at The Apron Boulders, this is one of the most iconic bouldering problems in Squamish, with big, physical moves on sloping holds. The landing is safe, but bring a good spotter and plenty of pads.
• The Cobra Crack (V7): Located at North Walls, this is a world-famous, overhanging crack line that combines finger jams, toe hooks, and incredible endurance. It’s a destination climb for strong crack climbers—don’t underestimate it.
• Paradise Valley - The Pearly Gates: A popular bouldering area with a variety of problems for all levels. The Pearly Gates boulder is particularly famous for its high-quality granite.
• Smoke Bluffs - The Circuit: A series of classic boulder problems that can be linked together for a fun and challenging circuit.

Slab Climbing

Squamish is known for its slab climbing, which requires a different set of skills than other types of climbing.

• Snake (5.9): Located on The Apron, this is a smooth slab climb with broad moves that will test your technique and friction footwork. It’s a commitment adventure—practice slab climbing beforehand.
• Crescent Crack (5.4): Located in the Smoke Bluffs, this is a fun, easy climb for beginners or those new to crack/slab climbing combos. Good route to practice placing trad gear.

Other Notable Areas

Squamish offers a variety of climbing areas beyond the most popular spots.

• Cheakamus Canyon: Known for its sport climbing, with routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14 and featuring permanently fixed draws.
• Murrin Park: Offers a variety of trad and sport climbing routes, including the popular Petrifying Wall.
• Area 44: A sector packed with moderate-grade sport climbs, though be aware of potential rockfall issues.
• Lynn Peak Area: Offers a variety of multi-pitch trad routes with stunning alpine views.
• Britannia Beach: Known for its unique sandstone climbs, providing a different climbing experience compared to the granite of Squamish.
• Shawn Green Canyon: Features shorter sport routes with excellent rock quality and scenic surroundings.
• Cornerstone Quarry Area: A good area for beginners.

Tips for Climbing in Squamish

To make the most of your climbing experience in Squamish, consider the following tips:

• Season: The best climbing season in Squamish typically runs from late spring to early fall (May to October), with July and August being the most popular months due to favorable weather conditions.
• Permits and Regulations: While most climbing areas in Squamish do not require permits for day use, it's essential to check for any specific restrictions or permit requirements, especially for multi-pitch and alpine routes.
• Weather Considerations: Squamish's weather can be unpredictable. Always check the forecast before heading out and be prepared for sudden changes, especially in higher elevations.
• Local Resources: Consider connecting with local climbing clubs or guide services for up-to-date information, route conditions, and potential guided climbs. The Squamish Mountaineering Club and the North Shore Climbers are valuable resources.
• Leave No Trace: Squamish's natural beauty is a significant part of its appeal. Practice Leave No Trace principles to preserve the climbing areas for future generations. This includes packing out all trash, minimizing chalk use, and respecting wildlife.
• Start early to avoid crowds on popular routes.
• Clean trad climbing gear placement and crack technique are essential for success here.
• Summers can be hot, but the granite allows for good climbing almost year-round. Watch out for rain—it can make rock slick, especially in spring and fall.
• Always check local access guidelines and practice leave-no-trace ethics.
• Ensure you have the necessary skills and equipment, and consider hiring a guide if you're new to the area or climbing at your limit.

Squamish is more than just a climbing destination—it's an experience. From the towering walls of The Chief to the incredible variety of single-pitch crags and world-class boulders, there's something here for every climber. Enjoy!