Managing excess water runoff from downspouts, sump pumps, or low spots in your yard is crucial for protecting your foundation and preventing soggy landscapes. A dry well offers an effective solution by collecting stormwater and allowing it to gradually seep into the surrounding soil. While installing a new dry well is a common project, you might be wondering if that old, unused well on your property could be repurposed for this task. This guide delves into the possibility of converting an existing well into a DIY dry well, outlining the necessary steps, potential challenges, and important safety and regulatory factors.
A traditional dry well is an underground structure, typically a pit filled with gravel or containing a specialized container (like a plastic tank), designed specifically to collect surface runoff or discharge from systems like sump pumps or roof gutters. Its primary function is infiltration – allowing water to slowly percolate into the surrounding soil, thereby reducing surface water pooling and potential erosion.
An existing water well, on the other hand, was originally constructed to access groundwater for supply purposes. These wells are often much deeper than typical dry wells and penetrate various soil and rock layers to reach an aquifer. When abandoned or unused, they might seem like convenient candidates for repurposing as drainage points.
Visual showing the installation of components for a subsurface drainage system like a dry well.
Yes, it is technically possible to convert an old, unused water well into a functional dry well, but it's not as simple as just directing a pipe into the old hole. Several critical factors must be addressed:
Old wells, especially those abandoned for years, may have deteriorating casings or structural weaknesses. Before considering reuse, a professional inspection is essential to assess its condition. A compromised well could collapse or fail to function correctly.
Perhaps the most significant hurdle is regulation. In the United States and many other regions, intentionally piping surface water (like stormwater runoff or sump pump discharge) into the ground, especially into a structure that accesses deeper soil layers or groundwater, can classify the system as an "injection well." These are often regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) or state environmental agencies to prevent groundwater contamination. You must check local and state regulations. Permits may be required, and some jurisdictions might outright prohibit this practice.
Surface runoff can carry pollutants like pesticides, fertilizers, oil, and bacteria. Introducing this potentially contaminated water directly into an old water well, which might connect to groundwater sources, poses a significant environmental risk. Proper filtering and understanding the well's depth and connection to aquifers are vital.
The effectiveness of any dry well, including a converted one, depends heavily on the surrounding soil's permeability. Clay-heavy soils drain poorly, which could render the system ineffective, leading to overflow or backup. While an existing well might reach more permeable layers deeper down, its overall capacity still needs to match the expected inflow.
If, after considering the risks and checking regulations, you determine conversion is feasible and permissible, here’s a general approach. Remember: Professional assessment of the well's condition and local regulations is highly recommended before starting.
Hire a qualified well contractor or inspector to assess the well's structural soundness, depth, casing material, and whether it's truly abandoned and sealed off from potable water sources.
If any standing water is present, test it for contaminants. This helps understand potential risks if overflow were to occur.
Contact your local planning/zoning department, health department, or state environmental agency to understand the rules regarding well conversion and injection wells.
Before any digging for connecting pipes, call 811 or your local utility locating service to mark underground lines.
Any old pumps, pipes, wiring, debris, or sediment must be carefully removed from the well. This might require specialized equipment, often necessitating professional help.
Ensure the well casing is clear and stable.
Partially fill the cleaned well with layers of clean gravel or crushed stone (e.g., 3/4-inch washed stone). This creates void space for water storage and facilitates percolation. The amount needed depends on the well's depth and desired capacity.
Consider lining the upper portions of the well or wrapping the inlet pipe area with non-woven geotextile (landscape) fabric. This prevents surrounding soil and silt from migrating into the gravel, which would reduce its effectiveness over time.
Excavate a trench from the water source (e.g., downspout outlet, sump pump discharge pipe) to the well location. The trench should be deep enough to protect the pipe (typically 18-24 inches) and must have a consistent downward slope towards the well (minimum 1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot) to ensure gravity flow.
Use solid PVC pipe (e.g., 4-inch diameter) for the main run from the source. Close to the well, you might transition to perforated PVC pipe to help disperse water, though the primary dispersion mechanism will be the well itself. Ensure connections are secure.
Direct the pipe securely into the top portion of the modified well, ensuring it discharges onto the gravel bed. Use appropriate fittings or adapters to secure the pipe entrance.
Carefully backfill the trenches with the excavated soil, compacting gently in layers.
Ensure the top of the old well is securely covered, perhaps with a suitable grate or lid that allows water entry but prevents debris accumulation and accidental falls. This cover might need to integrate with the inlet pipe.
Restore the surface with topsoil and sod, grass seed, or other landscaping as desired.
After the first significant rainfall or by running water through the system (e.g., from a hose into the connected downspout), observe how the system functions. Check for backups, pooling around the well area, or slow drainage, which might indicate capacity issues or clogging.
Converting an existing well involves several decision points and factors. This mindmap outlines the critical path from initial idea to potential implementation, highlighting key considerations like regulations and well suitability.
Deciding whether to build a new dry well or attempt to convert an existing one involves trade-offs. This table summarizes the key pros and cons of each approach:
Feature | Building a New Dry Well | Converting an Existing Well |
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The success of converting an existing well depends on multiple factors. This radar chart provides a visual comparison of key elements influencing the viability and risk associated with this type of project compared to installing a standard new dry well. Higher values generally indicate a more favorable condition or lower risk for that factor.
As the chart suggests, while potentially offering some savings in excavation, converting an existing well generally carries higher risks and complexities, particularly concerning regulations, environmental safety, and structural reliability, compared to installing a new system designed specifically for drainage.
While this video demonstrates the installation of a new, purpose-built dry well, many principles like pipe connection, slope requirements, and using gravel apply universally. Understanding the standard process provides valuable context, even if you are considering modifying an existing structure. This segment from "This Old House" outlines the fundamental steps.
Key takeaways from typical dry well installations include ensuring the system is located at least 10 feet away from foundations, using appropriate materials like PVC pipes and landscape fabric, and ensuring proper slope for water flow.
Conceptual diagram illustrating how water moves and is managed below the surface, similar to how a dry well facilitates infiltration.
Whether new or converted, a dry well requires periodic maintenance: